Cambridge American Cemetery and Memorial |
Two months ago I was in Scotland and England traveling with
friends Maggie and Ian, both formerly with the British Department
of Defense. We saw extraordinarily historic sites, including Maiden Castle in
Dorset, where a 6,000-year-old Iron Age settlement was invaded by Roman
newcomers. But among the remarkable places we visited, none moved me more powerfully
than the American cemetery sixty miles north of London, the only one of its
kind in the United Kingdom.
The solemn buildings and stark lines of pure white crosses were
softened by a light morning mist as we drove up to the gates of the Cambridge
American Cemetery and Memorial and parked, among the first to arrive at this
early hour. At the Visitor’s Center interpretive guide Arthur Brookes urged us into
an adjoining area where a film had just begun telling the story of the cemetery.
I sat down on a marble bench to listen. The American men and
women buried here were mostly World War II airmen, but also members of the US
Navy, Army, Marines and Coast Guard, nearly 4,000 in all, and the names of
another 5,000 are inscribed on the Wall of the Missing. Unexpected tears ran down
my cheeks as I watched aerial footage and cockpit recordings of doomed planes flown
by boys who came willingly to fight and die on foreign land, so far from home. They
were heartbreakingly young.
“In the UK we often think of the Americans in the War as the
ones with cigarettes and chocolate,” Arthur Brookes told our small group
afterwards. “But their effort made victory possible.” His careful, respectful account
of that effort, as well as the cemetery’s pristine grounds and buildings with
maps and plates depicting military movements, made clear that these American
war dead and their vital role in a common Allied effort are honored every day.
In 2014 we move
through daily life in the U.S., often heedless of the true sacrifices American service
men and women have made, and continue to make, around the world. But here in Cambridge,
England, that sacrifice will never forgotten. I left with deepest gratitude to Arthur Brookes
and all who maintain the cemetery, and hope others will take time to visit. It
is located three miles west of Cambridge, England on Highway A-1303 and is open
daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.
* * *
My cousin Phil lives in Jacksonville, Florida, which you
know as much by his drawl as by his address. Like many cousins, we stay loosely
in touch, and every couple years there’s a marathon phone call to catch up. I’m
fond of all my cousins, but two things distinguished Phil: he was an Eagle Scout
back when we were kids, and even I, his Massachusetts younger cousin, knew that
was a considerable accomplishment. Also, he loves trees, perhaps more than I
do, at least he knows them better. Every now and then he sends me a box of fragrant
split pine fatwood from his land in southern Florida. Somewhere in the box there
is always one piece of paper or kindling with the provenance of the tree
within. I keep them, of course, who could simply burn such a record.One says, for example:
Long leaf yellow pine
Planted? 1920-1930’s
Killed by lightning
Knocked down by tornado in 2004
Cut to dry in 2006
Split by hand 11/18/2007
We often talked about Daddy, but I was surprised to hear that this day
had a special association with him. “In World War II he was in the thick of it,”
Phil said. “And he volunteered. He was one of millions of other people who did
the same thing, but he was one of us, one of our family. He was in harm’s way and he did his best.”
My father, Howard V.R. Palmer, had married and joined the U.S. Navy in
1941. My parents shared their first Christmas together at the training center
in Hanover, New Hampshire. With separation by wartime combat facing them, the
only memory they shared, laughing, was always that their tiny fake musical tree was completely
dwarfed by presents.
P.S. I was sending Phil a fatwood thank-you bottle of Johnny Walker Scotch until a few years ago when he requested that, instead, I make a donation to the Wounded Warriors organization. And I pass along his recommendation.
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